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Title: Directional irregular wave kinematics
Authors: Univeristy of California at Berkeley
Barker, Christopher H.
Sobey, R. J.
Keywords: Crest kinematics
Local fourier method
Nonlinear waves
Wave gauges
Wave kinematics
Wave measurements
Issue Date: Sep-1998
Publisher: Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (U.S.)
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical report (U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station) ; CHL-98-24.
Description: Technical report
Coastal and ocean processes are heavily influenced by the kinematics waves. In order to understand these processes, researchers place a variety of instruments in the sea in an attempt to measure the waves. These instruments all measure a small set of physical quantities at a small number of locations. The balance of the kinematics must be predicted through analysis of the measured records. Most of the currently used methods of analysis rely on the superposition of linear waves to recreate complex seas. These methods are compromised by linearizing approximations to the free surface boundary conditions. Fidelity in the interpretation of wave measurement is enhanced by insisting that the analysis satisfies the full nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The Local Fourier method for irregular wave kinematics (LFI) is introduced and expanded to include the interpretation of records from arrays of instruments. It is local method, in that a separate solution is sought that fits the measured record(s) in a small local window in time, rather than attempting to find a single solution for a large segment of the record. Each window solution satisfies the full set of governing equations for gravity waves, including the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The solution in each window is a potential function whose form is based upon a Stokes style expansion for intersecting waves. The parameters are found by a nonlinear optimization that seeks the solution that matches the measured record and satisfies the full free surface boundary conditions.
Appears in Collections:Technical Report
Technical Report

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