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Title: Physical model study of wave diffraction-refraction at an idealized inlet
Authors: Seabergh, William C.
Curtis, William R.
Thomas, Leonette J.
Hathaway, Kent K.
Keywords: Inlet
Model study
Wave diffraction
Wave direction measurement
Wave refraction
Publisher: Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (U.S.)
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Description: Technical report
This physical model study of wave refraction-diffraction at structures typically present at coastal inlets was conducted to provide data sets that would aid in the calibration and verification of numerical wave models. The study was performed in the Coastal Inlet Research Program’s (CIRP) idealized inlet experimental basin at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL). Safe navigation, sediment transport into navigation channels, and shoreline erosion are all concerns at coastal inlets and are related to the transformation of waves as they change direction and height due to complex bathymetry and coastal inlet structures. The idealized inlet physical model, created for inlet studies, provided a facility in which to make wave measurements of height and direction in enough detail to document wave diffraction and refraction. Measurements of wave information included use of capacitive wave rods for wave height, acoustic-Doppler velocity sensors for wave direction, and new video-based wave direction measurement system. Four idealized structural configurations were examined with two irregular waves, 0.8 sec, 0.2 ft (6.1 cm), and 1.6 sec, 0.15 ft (4.6 cm), and one regular wave, 0.8 sec, 0.15 ft (4.6 cm). Structure 1 consisted of a shore-parallel breakwater with the wave generator creating shore-normal and 20-deg-angle waves. Structure 2 was a typical dogleg jetty with shore-normal and 20-deg-angle waves. Structure 3 was an unjettied inlet but included flood currents. Structure 4 had parallel jetties at the inlet. Structures 3 and 4 were concerned with wave transportation into the bay. A total of 30 wave gauges were used to acquire data with 20 gauges placed on two movable racks for deployment into specified gauge arrangements. This study also introduced the use of a new technique for acquiring video-based measurements of wave angle, the Coastal Inlets Imaging System (CIIS).
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Technical Report

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