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Title: Laboratory study of the generation of wind waves in shallow water
Authors: United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers
Sibul, Osvald J.
University of California, Berkeley. Wave Research Laboratory
Keywords: Winds
Water waves
Shallow waters
Wind wave tank
Wave tank experiment
Publisher: United States, Beach Erosion Board
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no. 72.
Description: Technical Memorandum
Abstract: Wind waves in shallow water were studied in a laboratory channel. The experiments were conducted with smooth and rough bottom conditions, and with strips of cheese cloth in the channel to simulate the roughness effects of vegetation in nature. The data indicate that the Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider curves may be used to predict the wave heights and periods for relatively deep water. In shallow water the wave heights may be considerably lower than predicted by the curves, depending upon the relative depth of water. The experiments indicate that the depth starts to affect the wave heights at approximately d/Ho < 5. The wave periods are also affected by the depth, but not as much as are the wave heights. The reduction in period can be noticed when d/Lo < 0.2; the period continues to decrease with decreasing depth. Further, it was found that the maximum wave height for a group of 100 waves is 1.34 times that of the significant wave height and 1.93 times that of mean wave height, Hmean. The average period of the significant waves (Th1/3) and the maximum waves (Th max)was found to be of the same magnitude and equal to 1.10 times the mean wave period Tmean. The maximum wave period almost never coincided with the maximum wave height. The maximum wave period Tmax was found to be 1.25 times that of significant wave period T 1/3, and 1.42 times that of mean wave period, Tmean. Note: Some of the mathematical expressions in the abstract could not be rendered in the character set provided on this system. The downloaded file will contain the appropriate expressions.
Rights: Approved for Public Release, Distribution is Unlimited
Appears in Collections:Technical Memorandum

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