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https://hdl.handle.net/11681/3422| Title: | The mechanics of deep water, shallow water, and breaking waves |
| Authors: | United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers United States. Office of Naval Research. University of California at Berkeley Morison, Jack R. Crooke, R. Curtis |
| Keywords: | Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves Breaking Waves Stokes Wave Theory |
| Publisher: | United States, Beach Erosion Board Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.) |
| Series/Report no.: | Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no.40. |
| Description: | Technical Memorandum Abstract: Experimental data are presented for deep water, shallow water, and breaking waves with respect to the wave surface time history, the horizontal and vertical particle velocities and the particle orbits. The measurements are compared where applicable to Stokes wave theory. The results are that the Stokes wave theory (1,2,3,4)* and other wave theories (2,3,4) show good agreement with the measurements for deep water conditions and even to d/L values of approximately 0.2. The theories do not apply for shallow water oonditions where d/L values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have an appreoiable steepness. |
| Rights: | Approved for Public Release, Distribution is Unlimited |
| URI: | http://hdl.handle.net/11681/3422 |
| Appears in Collections: | Technical Memorandum |
Files in This Item:
| File | Description | Size | Format | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BEB-TM-40.pdf | 8.6 MB | Adobe PDF |  View/Open |