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Title: The mechanics of deep water, shallow water, and breaking waves
Authors: United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers
United States. Office of Naval Research
University of California, Berkeley
Morison, Jack R.
Crooke, R. Curtis
Keywords: Deep-water waves
Shallow water waves
Breaking waves
Stokes wave theory
Publisher: United States, Beach Erosion Board
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no.40.
Description: Technical Memorandum
Abstract: Experimental data are presented for deep water, shallow water, and breaking waves with respect to the wave surface time history, the horizontal and vertical particle velocities and the particle orbits. The measurements are compared where applicable to Stokes wave theory. The results are that the Stokes wave theory (1,2,3,4)* and other wave theories (2,3,4) show good agreement with the measurements for deep water conditions and even to d/L values of approximately 0.2. The theories do not apply for shallow water oonditions where d/L values are appreciably less than 0.2 and the waves have an appreoiable steepness.
Rights: Approved for Public Release, Distribution is Unlimited
Appears in Collections:Technical Memorandum

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