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Title: The propagation of tidal waves into channels of gradually varying cross-section : effect of a frictional resistance over the bed
Authors: University of California, Berkeley. Wave Research Laboratory
United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers
Perroud, P. (Paul)
Keywords: Tsunamis
Ocean waves
Frictional effect
Tidal waves
Inlet areas
Publisher: United States, Beach Erosion Board
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no.112.
Description: Technical Memorandum
From the Preface: Long period ocean waves, including tsunamis, may cause considerable damage to shores and shore installations. Studies are now underway to determine the effect of refraction on long period waves, particularly as they approach the shore over sharp bottom discontinuities such as submarine canyons, and as they propogate into and through inlet areas. One important factor to be studied, for example, is whether a phenomenon similar to that of a Mach-stem can exist for such waves. In making these studies the effect of frictional resistance of the bed on the wave form must first be subtracted. Accordingly, a theoretical study has been made of the effect of this frictional resistance as the wave propagates into or through a channel of gradually varying cross-section. This report presents the results of this study. As well as being applicable to the movement of long period waves into shallow water, the results have application also to the propagation of tidal waves into inlet areas. Indeed, the more important and immediate area of application may be in this latter field, in which information is also urgently needed.
Appears in Collections:Technical Memorandum

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