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dc.contributorUnited States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers-
dc.contributor.authorShepard, Francis P. (Francis Parker), 1897-1985-
dc.contributor.authorScripps Institution of Oceanography-
dc.descriptionTechnical Memorandum-
dc.descriptionFrom the Introduction: The submerged longshore-bars and longshore-troughs which skirt the shore off most sandy beaches are described. The troughs which lie landward of the bars are explained as the result of plunging breakers and the longshore currents which are feeders to rip currents. The bars are thought to be partly the result of the excavation of the troughs and partly due to the landward migration of sand outside the breakers and seaward migration from the troughs. The depths of the bars and troughs are shown to be the related to wave and breaker heights. The elimination of some bars is seen to be the effect of a long continued period of small waves during which the bars move landward, filling the trough. In many areas the deeper bars persist undistrubed through long periods of quiet seas. The analysis of thousands of profiles, mostly taken along California open ocean piers, is the chief basis for the preceding conclusions.-
dc.descriptionThis report first appeared in limited issue as Submarine Geology Report No. 6 of the Scripps Institute of Oceanography, University of California-
dc.publisherUnited States, Beach Erosion Board-
dc.publisherEngineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)-
dc.relation.ispartofseriesTechnical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no. 15.-
dc.rightsApproved for Public Release, Distribution is Unlimited-
dc.sourceThis Digital Resource was created from scans of the Print Resource-
dc.subjectLongshore Bars-
dc.subjectLongshore Troughs-
dc.subjectLongshore Currents-
dc.subjectBeach Profiles-
dc.subjectWave Height-
dc.subjectBreaker Height-
dc.titleLongshore-bars and longshore-troughs-
Appears in Collections:Technical Memorandum

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