Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: https://hdl.handle.net/11681/3384
Title: Longshore-bars and longshore-troughs
Authors: United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers
Shepard, Francis P. (Francis Parker), 1897-1985
Scripps Institution of Oceanography
Keywords: Longshore bars
Longshore troughs
Longshore currents
Beach profiles
Wave height
Breaker height
Publisher: United States, Beach Erosion Board
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no. 15.
Description: Technical Memorandum
From the Introduction: The submerged longshore-bars and longshore-troughs which skirt the shore off most sandy beaches are described. The troughs which lie landward of the bars are explained as the result of plunging breakers and the longshore currents which are feeders to rip currents. The bars are thought to be partly the result of the excavation of the troughs and partly due to the landward migration of sand outside the breakers and seaward migration from the troughs. The depths of the bars and troughs are shown to be the related to wave and breaker heights. The elimination of some bars is seen to be the effect of a long continued period of small waves during which the bars move landward, filling the trough. In many areas the deeper bars persist undistrubed through long periods of quiet seas. The analysis of thousands of profiles, mostly taken along California open ocean piers, is the chief basis for the preceding conclusions.
This report first appeared in limited issue as Submarine Geology Report No. 6 of the Scripps Institute of Oceanography, University of California
Rights: Approved for Public Release, Distribution is Unlimited
URI: http://hdl.handle.net/11681/3384
Appears in Collections:Technical Memorandum

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