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https://hdl.handle.net/11681/3382
Title: | Longshore current observations in southern California |
Authors: | United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers Scripps Institution of Oceanography Shepard, Francis P. (Francis Parker), 1897-1985 |
Keywords: | Longshore Currents Surf Zones Southern California Rip Currents |
Publisher: | United States, Beach Erosion Board Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.) |
Series/Report no.: | Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no. 13. |
Description: | Technical Memorandum From the Introduction: Currents were measured in the surf zone at frequent intervals throughout a year at a series of stations along the southern California coast from the Mexico border to Newport. The study of data from these measurements shows that the dominant currents in the area are to the south, evidently in response to the direction of approach of the principal wave trains. North currents indicative of southern hemisphere storms prevail during a large part of the summer and fall. The feeders of rip currents were found to be important causes of longshore currents, particularly in areas with considerable submarine relief, but also in areas with straight beaches and parallel contours. Strong longshore currents exist even during times when large waves approach with their orthogonals essentially normal to the beaches. The importance of currents moving along the shore away from points of wave convergence was demonstrated by the year's investigation and has been confirmed subsequently by studies in the La Jolla area. |
Rights: | Approved for Public Release, Distribution is Unlimited |
URI: | http://hdl.handle.net/11681/3382 |
Appears in Collections: | Technical Memorandum |
Files in This Item:
File | Description | Size | Format | |
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BEB-TM-13.pdf | 4.46 MB | Adobe PDF | ![]() View/Open |