Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item:
Title: The interpretation of crossed orthogonals in wave refraction phenomena
Authors: New York University, School of Engineering and Science
United States. Army. Office of the Chief of Engineers
Pierson, Willard J.
Keywords: Water Waves
Wave Crests
Wave Front Method
Issue Date: Jan-1951
Publisher: United States, Beach Erosion Board
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical memorandum (United States. Beach Erosion Board) ; no. 21.
Description: Technical Memorandum
From the preface: This paper presents part of the results that have been obtained during the past eighteen months in the course of an investigation carried out in the Department of Meteorology under a contract sponsored by the Beach Erosion Board, Corps of Engineers, Department of the Army, Washington 16, D. C. and administered by the Research Division, College of Engineering, New York University. A preliminary report on these investigations was prepared for distribution in January of 1950. In the preliminary report some erroneous conclusions were drawn concerning the possibility of a wave crest between two orthogonals after the orthogonals had crossed. Since January, additional study of the problem has shown that no definite conclusions can be reached at this time on the behavior with respect to amplitude of the waves beyond the caustic, but that the wave shift can be substantiated by model experiments. The ultimate goal of the Wave Forecasting Program is to forecast waves on the New Jersey coast. This paper by Dr. Pierson furnishes the first requirement for such forecasts. For without complete knowledge of the effects of wave refraction over the complicated bottom topography off the New Jersey coast, it would not be possible to determine the variations of the waves during their travel from deep water to the shore where the recording instrument is located, and where the wave effects on the beach are to be determined.
Appears in Collections:Technical Memorandum

Files in This Item:
File Description SizeFormat 
BEB-TM-21.pdf6.69 MBAdobe PDFThumbnail