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Title: The effect of breaking waves on the directional spectrum of waves in water of variable depth in the presence of current
Authors: North Carolina State University. Department of Civil Engineering
Tung, Chi Chao
Cho, Yong J.
Keywords: Absolute reference frame
Auto covariance function
Currents, Directional spectra
Miche wave breaking criterion
Plane sloping beach
Probability functions
Relative reference frame
Shear current
Upwelling current
Publisher: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Miscellaneous paper (U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station) ; CERC-89-7.
Description: Miscellaneous paper
Abstract: This report details an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water. The wave trains in the directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the Haves also be short crested. The bathymetry is assumed to consist of straight parallel contours. The Miche breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of elevation. Snell's Law is used for wave refraction. Two examples are given: one for a Hallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current, and one with an upwelling current. Results are presented in graphical form.
Rights: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Appears in Collections:Miscellaneous Paper

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