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https://hdl.handle.net/11681/12610
Title: | Three-parameter characterization of shallow-water directional wind wave spectra |
Authors: | Long, Charles E. (Charles Edward) |
Keywords: | Energy flux Ocean waves Frequency-direction spectra Radiation stress Wave climate Wave database Wind waves Wave spectra Duck, North Carolina |
Publisher: | Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.) Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.) |
Series/Report no.: | Technical report (U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station) ; CERC-94-1. |
Description: | Technical Report Abstract: A 5-year, 6,759-case database of high resolution, shallow-water, frequency-direction spectra is examined by classifying spectra in discrete ranges of three parameters: characteristic wave height, spectral peak frequency, and spectral peak direction. Counting the number of cases in each classification reveals the distribution of the spectral population in the three-parameter domain. Averaging spectra within parametric classes defines characteristic spectra that can be used to describe nearshore wave conditions more completely when only three paramters are known or estimated. Though the resluts are specifically unique to the North Carolina outer banks experiment site (the Field Research Facility of the U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station Coastal Engineering Research Center), they are illustrative of the variability of wave energy distributions possible in nature. Computation of longshore energy fluxes and radiation stress tensor components using characteristic spectra and the three-parameter guidance of the Shore Protection Manual reveals significant differences, and suggests that the ability to measure directional distributions of wave energy with high resolution is critical to the further improvement of modeling and predictive ability. NOTE: This file is large. Allow your browser several minutes to download the file. |
Rights: | Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. |
URI: | http://hdl.handle.net/11681/12610 |
Appears in Collections: | Technical Report |
Files in This Item:
File | Description | Size | Format | |
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TR-CERC-94-1.pdf | 34.24 MB | Adobe PDF | View/Open |