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Title: Wave transformation over a generalized beach. Volume I, Main text and appendix A
Authors: Briggs, Michael Jeffrey.
Smith, Jane McKee.
Green, Debra R.
Keywords: Directional spectra
Shoaling waves
Wave nonlinearity
Directional spreading
Spectral evolution
Wave spectra
Hvdraulic model test
Wave directionality
Wave transformation
Ocean waves
Beach erosion
Sediment transport
Mathematical models
Publisher: Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Engineer Research and Development Center (U.S.)
Series/Report no.: Technical report (U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station) ; CERC-91-15 v. 1.
Description: Technical Report
Abstract: A three-dimensional, physical model study of the effects of wave directionality on wave transformation in the nearshore region was recently completed in the directional spectral wave basin. The model consisted of a 1:30 slope beach with plane-parallel contours, similar to the Torrey Pines Beach in southern California. Irregular waves, typical of unimodal and bimodal unidirectional and directional spectra, were created and tested. An array of 20 capacitance wave gages was used to measure surface wave elevations. This array consisted of offshore and nearshore, high-resolution linear arrays to quantify directional distributions and a cross-shore gage array along the center line to study wave transformation. Results are compared with two-dimensional flume test data of similar unidirectional waves and will be used to improve several existing numerical models. The goal of this research is to provide more realistic estimates of nearshore conditions by incorporating the effects of directional distributions in numerical models.
Rights: Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
Appears in Collections:Technical Report

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